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Reflected back at me, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Kids play in a stone basin acting as ocean creatures, and adjacent rests a talking pea in a display case, beside a imposing stack of bedding. It embodies the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s widely adored authors. I’m in Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the south of the Danish kingdom, to investigate Andersen’s enduring legacy in his home town 150 years after his demise, and to discover a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

Andersen's House is the town's cultural center honoring the author, incorporating his first home. An expert notes that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For guests who visit this place in search of fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The redesign of Odense city centre, diverting a major road, created the chance to rethink how the local celebrity could be commemorated. A major architecture competition awarded the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the structure. The remarkable wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiralling spaces opened to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we talk like him: with humour, irony and perspective,” says the representative. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for strollers and for large beings, it's planned to make you feel small,” he says, a goal realized by thoughtful gardening, manipulating height, proportion and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored multiple autobiographies and often changed his story. The museum adopts this philosophy seriously; typically the views of his friends or snippets of written messages are presented to gently question the writer's personal account of events. “Andersen is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” says the representative. The result is a fascinating rapid journey of his personal story and work, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It is thought-provoking and fun, for adults and youngsters, with a additional underground make-believe land, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

In the actual city, the small city of Odense is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the street signals show the storyteller with his iconic top hat, metal shoe prints give a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this dedication culminates with the annual storytelling event, which marks the writer's impact through creativity, performance, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the week-long event had 500 shows, most of which were free. During my time in the city, I meet artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I listen to empowering poetry and witness an incredible evening show with athletic artists descending from the city building and hanging from a crane. Upcoming events during the season are lectures, hands-on activities and, expanding the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly Magic Days festival.

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a castle, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

As in other Danish regions, cycles are the best way to travel around in this town and a “bike path” winds through the city centre. Starting at my accommodation, I ride to the public waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a loop around Stige Ø, a small island joined by a bridge to the mainland. City residents have outdoor meals here in the evening, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

In the city, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is inspired by Andersen themes and stories. The verse the national ode is featured during my meal, and owner the host shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice frequent in my visit, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it feels as though narrating is continuously available here.

Castle Explorations

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a castle, and this region features over a hundred manors and manor houses throughout the region. Taking day trips from Odense, I tour the historic fortress, the region's best-preserved moated palace. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his spouse, the royal resident. I ponder if she can feel a pea through a pile of {mattresses